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Thickness Planer Buying Guide: Top Picks and Features Explained

By Jim Whitaker
Thickness Planer Buying Guide: Top Picks and Features Explained

A thickness planer is one of the most transformative tools you can add to a woodworking shop. Once you own one, you’ll wonder how you ever worked without it. Planers allow you to buy rough-sawn lumber — which costs considerably less than dimensioned S4S stock from the home center — and mill it to any thickness you need. They let you reuse reclaimed lumber, create custom thicknesses for specific joinery, and produce surfaces smooth enough to go straight from the machine to finish sanding.

This guide explains how thickness planers work, how they differ from jointers, what specifications matter most, and which specific models deserve your attention in 2026.

How a Thickness Planer Works

A thickness planer consists of a rotating cutter head (mounted above the work surface) and a feed roller system that moves the workpiece through the machine. The cutter head is set to a specific height above the bed, and the feed rollers drive the board under the cutter at a controlled rate. Material is removed from the top face of the board until it emerges at the set thickness.

The critical point to understand is that a planer makes both faces of the board parallel to each other at the set thickness — it does not make either face flat on its own. If you feed a cupped or twisted board through a planer, the feed rollers press it flat momentarily, but when the board exits, it springs back to its original shape — just thinner. This is why a jointer (which creates a flat reference face) should always precede a thickness planer in the milling sequence.

The correct sequence for milling rough lumber is:

  1. Joint one face flat (jointer)
  2. Joint one edge square to the flat face (jointer)
  3. Plane to final thickness with the flat face down (planer)
  4. Rip to final width (table saw)

Planer vs. Jointer: Choosing Priorities

If you can only afford one machine, which do you buy first?

Buy the planer first if: You primarily work with S4S lumber from the home center (already flat, needs only thickness adjustment), you do a lot of resawing and need to thickness pieces after band sawing, or you work with wide panels that need thickness consistency.

Buy the jointer first if: You work with rough-sawn lumber and need to correct defects before planing, you do a lot of edge-jointing for glue-ups, or flatness accuracy is more critical than thickness consistency in your work.

For most woodworkers, the planer comes first because it has more everyday uses when working with the kind of lumber available at home centers. Once budget allows, a jointer completes the milling setup.


Key Specifications

Width Capacity

Planers are categorized by the maximum width of board they accept. The most common sizes are:

  • 12-inch planers: Compact, affordable, and adequate for most hobby woodworking. Handles boards up to 12 inches wide, which covers most solid wood stock. These are the lightest and most portable benchtop models.
  • 13-inch planers: The most popular size for hobbyists and semi-professionals. The extra inch of capacity is genuinely useful for wider panels. Most mid-range models fall in this category.
  • 15-inch planers: Typically found in semi-professional and professional shops. These handle wider stock, glued-up panels, and reclaimed slabs. They’re heavier, more expensive, and usually more powerful.

For most hobby shops, a 13-inch planer is the sweet spot.

Cutting Depth Per Pass

Most benchtop planers cut a maximum of 1/8 inch per pass, though some allow up to 3/16 inch. For rough lumber with significant thickness variation, you’ll need multiple passes. Cutting too aggressively in a single pass overloads the motor, dulls the knives faster, and risks tearout. A maximum depth of 1/8 inch is standard and sufficient for well-managed milling sequences.

Feed Rate

Feed rate — typically measured in feet per minute — determines how quickly the board moves through the machine. Most benchtop planers offer a single feed rate around 16 to 26 FPM. Some models offer two-speed feed (fast for rough removal, slow for fine finishing passes). A slower feed rate on the final pass produces a noticeably smoother surface.

Motor HP

Benchtop planers typically range from 1.5 to 3.0 HP. More horsepower allows deeper cuts, handles harder wood species without bogging down, and maintains consistent blade speed under load. For maple, white oak, and other dense hardwoods, 2.0 HP or more is preferable. For pine, poplar, and softer species, 1.5 HP is generally adequate.

Snipe

Snipe is the most common complaint about planers — it’s a shallow depression cut into the leading and trailing 6 to 12 inches of the board as the feed rollers engage and release. Snipe is caused by the board tipping slightly as the roller transitions its grip. Every planer produces some degree of snipe; the question is how much and how effectively it’s controlled.

Strategies to minimize snipe:

  • Add extra length to your boards and cut off the sniped ends after planing
  • Support the board at infeed and outfeed to prevent tipping — use roller stands set to the exact bed height
  • Use the two-roller technique: Feed a sacrificial board in first; follow immediately with your good board so the rollers are already engaged
  • Take a very light final pass (1/64 inch or less) — snipe is most visible on deeper cuts

Helical vs. Straight Knives

This is the same decision as on jointers, with the same tradeoffs:

Straight knives (HSS): Standard on most budget and mid-range planers. They produce good results when sharp. Nicks create ridges. Resharpening or replacement requires removing the knives, which requires setup time.

Helical cutter heads: Use small square carbide inserts. They produce smoother surfaces, are quieter, handle difficult grain better, and the individual insert-rotation system means a nicked insert costs $3 to fix rather than requiring a full set of new knives. The DeWalt DW735X and JET JWP-15BHH both offer helical upgrades or factory helical options.

For woodworkers who regularly process figured wood, reclaimed lumber with nails (remove all metal first!), or simply want the lowest-maintenance setup, helical heads are the right choice.


Best Thickness Planers for 2026

WEN 6550 — Best Budget 12.5-Inch Planer

The WEN 6550 is a 12.5-inch, 15-amp planer that offers reliable performance for light to moderate hobby use. It uses three straight high-speed steel knives and produces consistent results on softwoods and most hardwoods. The feed rate is 26 FPM, which is on the faster side — good for rough stock removal. Snipe is present but manageable with proper technique.

At its price point, the WEN 6550 is a genuine value. It’s not a machine that will impress professionals, but for a woodworker who processes a few board feet per session and is on a tight budget, it gets the job done.

  • Capacity: 12.5 inches wide, 6 inches tall
  • Motor: 15 amps (approx. 2 HP)
  • Knives: 3 straight HSS
  • Feed rate: 26 FPM
  • Best for: Budget shops, beginners, occasional use

Makita 2012NB — Best Mid-Range Portable Planer

The Makita 2012NB is a 12-inch planer renowned for its quiet operation, smooth feed, and excellent build quality. It uses Makita’s four-column construction (four posts guide the cutter head rather than two) for improved stability and more consistent thickness across the width of the board. The two-speed feed (16 FPM and 26 FPM) is a genuine advantage — use high speed for rough passes and drop to low speed for the final finishing pass.

Makita machines are known for their refinement and longevity, and the 2012NB lives up to that reputation. It’s lighter than the DeWalt DW735X and smaller in footprint, which is a meaningful advantage in tight shops.

  • Capacity: 12 inches wide, 6.5 inches tall
  • Motor: 15 amps
  • Knives: 2 straight HSS (indexed)
  • Feed rate: 16 or 26 FPM
  • Best for: Portability-conscious shops, clean environments, precision work

DeWalt DW735X — Best Overall 13-Inch Planer

The DeWalt DW735X is the most popular benchtop planer in North America and for good reason. It accepts boards up to 13 inches wide and has a maximum cutting height of 6 inches. Its three-knife cutter head runs at 10,000 RPM and produces 96,000 cuts per minute — one of the highest in its class, which translates to smoother surfaces. The two-speed feed (96 and 179 cuts per inch of board travel) lets you choose between fast stock removal and a fine finishing cut.

The DW735X package includes an infeed and outfeed extension table, which meaningfully improves snipe control on longer boards. The extra-long infeed and outfeed tables support the board properly as the rollers engage and release. DeWalt also sells a helical cutter head upgrade (the DW7352), which is worth adding if you work with figured wood.

  • Capacity: 13 inches wide, 6 inches tall
  • Motor: 15 amps
  • Knives: 3 straight HSS (replaceable)
  • Feed rate: Two-speed
  • Best for: Most hobby and semi-professional shops

DeWalt DW735X Thickness Planer on Amazon

JET JWP-15BHH — Best 15-Inch Pro-Grade Planer

For shops that process a lot of wide stock, or for woodworkers who want professional-grade performance, the JET JWP-15BHH is the top recommendation. It’s a 15-inch, 3 HP planer with a factory helical cutter head — 56 carbide inserts in a spiral arrangement that produces an exceptionally smooth surface with minimal tearout. The three-roller feed system provides better snipe control than two-roller designs, and the pneumatic thickness adjustment allows for fine incremental changes.

The JWP-15BHH is heavy (roughly 200 lbs) and expensive, but it’s the kind of machine that transforms a serious hobby shop into a professional-level operation. For woodworkers who build furniture and sell their work, or who regularly process rough-sawn slabs, it earns back its cost in time saved and improved results.

  • Capacity: 15 inches wide, 8 inches tall
  • Motor: 3 HP
  • Knives: Helical cutter head (factory)
  • Best for: Semi-professional shops, production furniture building

Planer Safety and Best Practices

  • Always remove metal before planing reclaimed lumber. A metal detector wand is a worthwhile $20 investment.
  • Never plane boards shorter than the distance between the infeed and outfeed rollers — typically 12 inches minimum. Short pieces tip and can be ejected violently.
  • Stand to the side of the planer, not directly behind the outfeed, in case of kickback.
  • Take light passes on the finishing cut — 1/64 inch or less for the smoothest surface.
  • Keep knives sharp. Dull knives require more force, cause tearout, and bog down the motor.

Jim Whitaker

Jim Whitaker

Master Carpenter & Founder of The Carpenter's Guide